Bordeaux in the Modern Age - Innovation & Inspiration
In the previous episode we learned about the origins of this great region culminating in the 1855 Classification which set the stage for the modernization of Bordeaux that transformed it into the powerhouse we know today. The classification established not only a hierarchy of quality but created demand and pricing security for all classified estates, empowering them to enact multi-vintage innovation projects which fortified production and vintage management.
This was proven a masterstroke during the great trial of Bordeaux history between 1875 & 1892 when the vines were devastated by Phylloxera, a root feeding pest that cripples vineyards which was mistakenly imported from the USA. The solution of grafting Vitis Vinifera vines onto phylloxera resistant American rootstock was developed by Leo Laliman and Gaston Bazille, a pair of local Bordeaux wine growers. This is possibly the most important vineyard innovation in viticultural history as it is the ONLY proven method of protecting vines from Phylloxera and is the widespread practice throughout the world where Phylloxera is present.
Bordeaux’s trials were not over as time ticked into the 20th century, with production needing to weather the storms of World War I, the Great Depression and World War II. The joy of 1945, with the second World War concluded, signalled the beginning of the second golden age for Bordeaux and those that have had the chance to sample wines produced from 1945 - 1949 (our team has been able to enjoy at least 4 extraordinary bottles from these years) can attest to just how resilient and simply spectacular these wines are even today, and how they seem to capture the reborn energy of the time period. A true testament to the magic of wine.
The arrival of Robert Parker Jr signalled a turning point in Bordeaux that filtered onto the entire wine world, introducing his 100-point review which gave wine lovers new to the region a reference point for wines. No longer did established lineage define every estate, with lesser known producers like La Mondotte, Pontet Canet or La Mission Haut Brion suddenly thrust into the spotlight. The wines themselves also changed, with some producers aiming for more power and intensity, as was Parker’s stylistic preference.
Left-Bank classification vs Graves & Right Bank artistry gained momentum throughout the century. Importantly, Chateau Mouton Rothschild was promoted to first growth status in 1973, but many producers throughout the Gironde estuary were no longer constricted on pricing, and subsequently quality control, based on prior classifications. As named above, La Mission Haut Brion became the second powerhouse estate of Graves and ‘Super-Rights’ like Petrus, Le Pin and Lafleur outstripped their First Growth rivals in pricing and often quality.
The blend of innovation, history and consistency has positioned Bordeaux uniquely to maintain its hold as one of the preeminent wine producing regions in the world. The History of Wine may not have begun in Bordeaux, but it was crafted by these vignerons and we at the World of Wine thank them for their resilience and brilliance.
The Estates that have shaped the modern age
Left-bank/Medoc Leaders
Chateau Margaux, Chateau Latour, Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, Chateau Cos d’Estournel, Chateau Leoville-Las-Cases, Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron & Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou
Graves & Sauternes
Chateau Haut-Brion, Chateau La Mission Haut Brion, Chateau d’Yquem & Chateau Rieussec
Right-bank
Chateau Petrus, Chateau Cheval Blanc, Chateau Ausone, Chateau le Pin, Chateau Canon, Chateau Lafleur-Petrus, Chateau Figeac & Chateau Angelus