Once in a generation, a winemaker emerges whose vision and craftsmanship transform the trajectory of wine history. Anselme Selosse is one such figure—a revolutionary whose pioneering ideas and remarkable achievements have redefined Champagne, driving a profound evolution that continues to elevate and set the standards in the region.
Since taking the helm of Champagne Jacques Selosse in 1980, Anselme has used the uncompromising brilliance of his wines, along with his undeniable charisma, to challenge traditional notions of excellence in Champagne. Today, as small, quality-focused growers gain influence and the major houses embrace principles like low yields, chemical-free vineyards, and terroir-driven wines, much of the credit for this shift undoubtedly goes to Anselme.
The domaine was founded by Anselme’s father in 1964, and Anselme took over the estate a decade later. After training in Burgundy, he introduced the single-vineyard approach to Champagne, beginning to vinify each of the domaine’s plots separately. Today, the domaine spans 8.3 hectares, divided into 54 distinct plots. The majority of the vines—7.3 hectares—are located in the prestigious Grand Cru villages of Avize (where the domaine is based), Cramant, Oger, and Mesnil-sur-Oger, all situated on the Côte des Blancs, and dedicated to Chardonnay. Additionally, the domaine owns vineyards in Ambonnay, Aÿ, and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, where Pinot Noir is grown. The vines are all old, with an average age of 55 years, and the oldest vines dating back to 1922.
Anselme’s most significant insight may have been the realization that to create exceptional Champagne, you must start with extraordinary base wines. Fortunately, he was blessed with outstanding Grand Cru vineyards in Avize, Cramant, and Oger. While much attention has been given to his winemaking techniques, it’s Anselme’s focus on terroir that may have been his most groundbreaking contribution and y practicing low yields and meticulous viticulture, he ensures that his grapes are not only some of the most physiologically ripe in Champagne but also among the most expressive.
In the winery, Selosse challenges tradition with his unique approach: he uses a selection of indigenous yeast strains from his own vineyards for fermentation and minimizes the use of sulfur dioxide (SO2). His wines are fermented and aged in oak barrels (less than 20% new) and are left on their fine lees for extended periods, enhancing their complexity and depth.
Richard Juhlin, one of the best Champagne critics highlighted “I’ve mentioned the name of Anselme Selosse on several occasions ... partly because he’s my favorite grower and partly because he's the most original winemaker in all of Champagne ... Selosse’s wines have given Champagne a new dimension, with their unique, vinous, Chardonnay style ... Despite this fame, his wines cost nothing compared to Pétrus, Romanée-Conti, or Krug Clos du Mesnil.”
Anselme's achievements are underscored by the fact that in 1994, Gault-Millau named him France's best winemaker across all categories—an unprecedented honor. Such accolades have solidified his reputation as one of the most innovative winemakers in France today, admired not only by his peers but by a legion of collectors worldwide who covet each and every bottle of Jacques Selosse Champagne they can find. Our experts at The World of Wine were lucky to discover Jacques Selosse in 2011 and have a great collection of the wines to offer you.
