A Miracle Birthed from the Depths of Despair
The 2012 growing season started where the 2011 season left off, a nightmare for all and sundry. Terrorised by the extraordinarily difficult 2011 vintage, Champagne vignerons were rightly pessimistic at first, but 2012 is a story of how fortunes can turn in just a few weeks and results became wines of expression, detail and extraordinary quality - potentially one of the great all-time vintages.
The Growing Season
2012 started in one of the most disastrous ways possible. Almost every possible factor felt like it was conspiring against the region - severe frost, hail, persistent rainfall. This marriage of extreme weather events dramatically increased disease and rot pressure forcing the growers to work overtime to protect their vineyards. However, as if following a lucky spin on a roulette wheel, everything changed in August. A stretch of warm weather lifted ripeness, initiated a late veraison and guided the region to a triumphant harvest. Despite yields being very low, this rapid growing phase triggered by the warmth of the season had virtually no disease or rot when it came time to pick the grapes. Uniform concentration and acidity within harvested grapes allowed the houses to craft wines of extreme finesse and beauty - some growers even comparing the quality levels to that of 2008 & 1996.
A Singular Style
Whilst compared to the all-time great vintages, 2012 shares very few similarities in terms of style. 2012 has a very high sugar to acidity ratio (this is the metric that draws the 2008/1996 comparisons) and also showcases an ingrained concentration like 2008, but the 2012’s are enriched by an explosive aromatic intensity which in its relative youth is atypical when compared to the insular nature of the great Champagne years. Yields were the lowest since the heatwave losses of 2003 and this blessing is what has bestowed a primal energy and intensity into the cuvees produced in 2012. This unique combination expressed through the harvested 2012’s allowed producers to showcase terroir through the exemplified character found in the fruit. It also created a duality where estates who wanted to focus on summoning forth ‘house styles’, think Bollinger’s brioche & toastiness, were enabled by the innate structural components of the harvest.
How are the wines progressing?
The beauty of Champagne, especially vintage expressions, is how long they are aged in the cellar before release. Whilst a majority of non-vintage expressions who drew their base wines from the 2012 vintage have come and gone, a large number of 2012 vintage Cuvees are being consumed by our team now and they are wines which inspire drinkers and connoisseurs to swoon.
Some of the highlights over the last few months include:
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Cedric Bouchard La Haut Lemble
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Laurent Perrier Grand Millesime
What is MOST evident across all these tasted Champagne is how singular the expressions are, the chef de cave of each estate has been able to craft wines that showcase exacting precision and character. Cristal, Dom Perignon and Salon, for example, produced their greatest iterations since 2008, perhaps even eclipsing them.
What does the future hold?
The extraordinary balance gives lovers of Champagne a glimpse into the future of the 2012 vintage. The wines are remarkable to behold currently showcasing texture, depth and expression. Bright acidity and persistent structure confirm that despite the approachability the best wines have a longevity which will continue to reward drinkers for decades, offering a unique duality not even found in highly regarded vintages like 2008, 2002 or 1996 at this early age. Our advice, fortify your stocks and drink some 2012 when the occasion next strikes as you will not be disappointed!