Once upon a vine, in a tale that bubbles over with history, Krug emerged as one of the world's most luxurious champagne houses. But rewind the clock to its origins, and you'll find a story with far more modest beginnings. The House of Krug was founded in 1843 by Johann-Joseph Krug, a butcher’s son. Born in Mainz in 1800, Joseph (who dispensed with the name Johann) travelled to Paris in 1834 to work as an accountant for Champagne Jacquesson, in Chalons-sur-Marne.Joseph’s work soon took him beyond the office and across Europe, where he delved into the art of composition and taste. This journey sparked a profound interest in Champagne, and it is said that during this time, he came to understand that the very essence of Champagne is pleasure. In 1843, after a year of negotiations, he founded Krug, marking the beginning of his Champagne legacy.Joseph Krug’s vision was clear from the start: to create the very best Champagne every year, regardless of the vintage conditions. This bold philosophy led to the creation of the house’s flagship multi-vintage wine, initially labeled “Private Cuvee”. In 1978, the wine was rebranded as Krug Grande Cuvee, and it quickly became the hallmark of the house. While vintage wines were, and still are, often regarded as more prestigious, Grande Cuvee challenges this notion by celebrating the artistry of blending multiple plots and vintages to create something truly exceptional. This masterpiece is a blend of more than 120 different wines from up to 12 different years, offering a remarkable complexity.In 1868, Joseph Krug’s son, Paul Krug I, relocated the business to Rue Coquebert, where it continues to operate today. The fifth generation of the Krug family, brothers Henri and Remi Krug, were instrumental in bringing about significant changes at the house. They introduced Krug Rose in 1983, as well as the prestigious single-vineyard, vintage Champagnes: Clos du Mesnil and Clos d’Ambonnay, further elevating the house’s reputation for innovation and excellence.In 1971, Henri and Remi Krug purchased six hectares of Chardonnay vines from a grower in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, among which they discovered a walled, 1.84-hectare plot known as Clos du Mesnil. The exceptional quality of the wines from this plot stood out so markedly during blending that the brothers decided to bottle it separately starting in 1979. Clos du Mesnil Blanc de Blancs is produced only in exceptional vintages, showcasing the unique character of the vineyard. During our journey through Champagne, The World of Wine discovered that the walled 1.84-hectare plot, before coming into the hands of Krug, was exclusively supplying Salon. This vineyard remains the only one Champagne Salon has lost access to since the early 1900s.Seeking to celebrate Pinot Noir in a similar fashion, the brothers embarked on a search for an ideal site and eventually acquired Clos d’Ambonnay in 1994. The first vintage of Clos d’Ambonnay Blanc de Noirs came from this 0.68-hectare vineyard in 1995, and, much like Clos du Mesnil, it is only produced in select years, ensuring that each release reflects the highest standards of the house.All Krug’s wines undergo primary fermentation in 205-litre oak barrels. Each cru is vinified separately, without malolactic fermentation to preserve the wines’ freshness and longevity, and the reserve wines are then stored in stainless steel. All three vintage Krugs (Krug Vintage, Krug Clos du Mesnil and Krug Clos d’Ambonnay) are aged for a minimum 10 years on lees – seven more than the legal requirement for standard and single-vineyard vintage Champagnes.Since the 1981 vintage, a small proportion of the House’s vintage cuvee has been held back and released at least a decade later as the Krug Collection, offering wine lovers a chance to experience the evolution of these exceptional wines over time.
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James Suckling
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Wine & Spirits