94 Points - William Kelley Wine Advocate
The 2022 Meursault Les Rougeots is beautiful, unfurling in the glass with aromas of pear, confit citrus, freshly baked bread, toasted sesame and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's textural and structured, with lively acids, chalky dry extract and a suave, seamless profile. Raphaël Coche has turned out another terrific set of wines in 2022, exhibiting superb depth and structure united with a rare sense of ease and effortlessness. As I've written before, the last decade witnessed a stylistic evolution at Domaine Coche-Dury—although this is hardly news, as the changes have been underway for the better part of two decades. In Raphaël's words, the domaine now works with "less new oak, less bâtonnage and less heavy lees." The distinctively toasty, sometimes reductive signature that marked out the Coche-Dury wines of yesteryear is less pronounced. But, as Raphaël emphasizes, that has been the case for some time. "The last vintages marked by pronounced reduction were 1999 and 2007," he observes. "And I didn't initiate the move toward a purer, less stylized approach alone: my father and I agreed on the change of direction together." Some clients, Raphaël says, have complained, but his response is uncompromising. "They may want the vinification [techniques] in the glass, but I want to taste the terroir."
93 Points - Neal Martin Vinous
The 2022 Meursault Rougeots has good weight and presence on the nose, with touches of dried honey/honeycomb, nutmeg and grilled walnut emerging with time. The palate is beautifully balanced with vivid, quite citric fruit. It's quite saline in style with a linear, tensile finish that lingers long in the mouth. There's so much energy coiled up here. Raphael Coche greeted me at the winery just outside Meursault village. Before tasting his 2022s (since, like Olivier Lamy and Domaine Leflaive, they no longer show the wines in barrel), we ventured out into the vines for a brief inspection of his cover crops. As you might expect, Coche is fastidious about which cover crops he uses. He has a machine that “shoots” the seeds exactly 60 mm into the earth, a mixture of different sized bulbs, to make sure that the pedicule can take leaf over the surface. They intentionally use cover crops that do not grow too high, mainly types of edible salad. Coche was his usual voluble self, ever the contrarian on subjects surrounding Burgundy. “The 2022 vintage was very sunny and dry,” Coche explains. “We saw a little hydric stress, but rainfall at the end of July regenerated the vines. There were two bands of rainfall, the first covering more of the surface, but the second penetrated the soil. I was a bit worried in July. I started picking on August 25. The wines retain the freshness for both white and red, which are quite tannic.” Coche-Dury’s whites are exceptional, which is not unexpected.92 Points - Allen Meadows, BurghoundA more elegant and not quite as ripe nose features aromas of Granny Smith apple, acacia blossom, spice and just sliced lemon rind. As is usually the case, the middle weight flavors aren't as dense or powerful but they are both finer and more mineral-driven, while delivering outstanding length for a villages-level wine on the bone-dry finish that is borderline tannic. This is, texturally speaking, completely different from the Enseignères and should age just as gracefully.
