Founded in 1872 by William Ponsot upon his return from the Franco-Prussian War, Domaine Ponsot began as he chose to settle in the charming village of Morey-Saint-Denis. Estate bottling commenced here in the 1930s as it did at other historic Domaine’s like Henri Gouges, Lafarge and Rousseau. Clonal selection in Burgundy also began here—Jean-Marie Ponsot provided the mother plants from his ancient Clos de la Roche vines for the first approved Burgundy clones. To this day Domaine Ponsot remains Burgundy’s most avant-garde estate, all the while crafting Burgundies of beguiling purity from many of the grandest terroirs of the Côte. Iconoclast Laurent Ponsot left Domaine Ponsot to start his own negociant business in 2016. Laurent’s sister, Rose-Marie Ponsot (co-director of the Domaine since 1997) is now in charge, assisted by her nephew William and manager Alexandre Abel. Cellar-master Laurent Desgouttes has also joined the ranks. What has changed since Laurent’s departure? A few things, but nothing truly fundamental. The Domaine’s long-standing vineyard manager of 35 years, Denis Remondet, remains in his role and continues to work to ever higher standards demanding meticulous attention to detail. The Domaine employs seven full-time workers for seven hectares of vineyard (which tells you all you need to know). It’s the same harvesting policy—only fully ripe fruit with strict selection in the vineyards. It’s the same gravity-fed cellar with its huge, wooden fermenters and zero new oak—unique in the Côte de Nuits—is still the rule. The Estate has a terrific, modern cellar and enthusiastically uses the latest technology where it aids quality. Hydraulic basket presses, temperature control in the wooden fermenters, a state-of-the-art bottling line and the use of ArdeaSeal closures make this clear. Most recently, every hectare of the Domaine’s vines are now managed organically (the steepest sites in Monts Luisants have always been the challenge here) and horses have reappeared in the vineyards. Domaine Ponsot is the largest landowner in Clos de la Roche, with some of the oldest vines—averaging approximately 60 years of age—and mostly situated within the historic Clos itself. If you appreciate the great wines from Morey St Denis then Domaine Ponsot alongside Domaine Georges Roumier is one of the leading producers and worth your attention.