The producer Giacomo Conterno is responsible for the first and most important icon wine of Barolo, the Monfortino Riserva. While the story of this producers rise to superstardom is entwined with the rise of Barolo itself, the early years are less well documented.
The origins of Conterno remain clouded to this day, the family is purported to have viticultural roots in the region of Piedmonte dating back to the 1800’s, but Giacomo Conterno as we know it is thought to have been established around 1908. The first bottled release of their Barolo is uncertain, with some reports of it being from the 1912 vintage and others the 1920 vintage. What is certain however is that Conterno was a trailblazing pioneer for the region as prior to the 1920’s all Barolo wines were sold in cask and destined for early consumption - a vast difference to how we view the wines today.
The following 3 decades saw an establishment of the name and house style, with Giacomo’s son Giovanni beginning chief winemaking duties in 1959 and the estate passing fully into the hands of Giovanni & Aldo, Giacomo’s other son, in 1961. The next few years saw 3 all time great vintages in 1961, 1964 & 1967 but in 1969 the brothers parted ways as their conflicting views on winemaking became untenable. Giovanni’s style was created in the mold of his father, a strict adherence to traditional techniques that formed the backbone of the estate - this was diametrically opposed to Aldo that wanted to pursue a modernist approach.
Now with sole control Giovanni could continue to make the wines true to his singular vision and in 1974 made a move to consolidate the estates future by purchasing Cascina Francia in Serralunga, Giovanni was joined by his son Roberto in 1988, where the father-son duo worked closely for the next 16 years until Giovanni’s death in 2004.
The estate’s reputation has been built on the back of 2 wines. The Monfortino Riserva (named in honour of Giacomo’s home village) and the Estate Barolo. These wines are not produced every year, with the Monfortino Riserva only produced in exceptional vintages.
Roberto’s suite of wines has expanded into the modern era, with single cru bottlings of Cerretta, Arione and Francia alongside Barbera d’Alba & Gattinara wines. Despite all of the new projects, the crown jewel remains the Monfortino Barolo Riserva - the wine that began the new age of Barolo and is arguably the most important wine produced in Piedmont to this day.
We at the World of Wine want to thank the Conterno family; the visionary Giacomo, the dedicated Giovanni and the perfectionist Roberto. Without your impact we would not have the lasting joy that comes with every sip of Barolo. Bravo.
